A holiday in Cambodia is high on the list of many Aussies these days. Think dark mysterious Asia, think Cambodia for lashings of exotic culture, ancient civilisations and a quiet, spiritual lifestyle. Think vast fields of jungle-clad temples and rivers running in reverse. Much of the population still subsists on less than $1 a day, the provision of even basic services remains patchy, but the security situation has greatly improved, and increasing numbers of visitors are rediscovering Cambodia's temples and natural beauty.

The tourist hotspots are a fascinating blend of the spiritual, curious and downright macabre. The temples of Angkor aside, one of the most oft-visited sites are the Killing fields of Choeng Ek. Here, a stark white stupa looks down on the scores of mass graves where thousands lost their life to the brutal Khmer Rouge regime of the 1970s. Not far from Siem Reap is the Cambodia Landmine Museum where you’re encouraged to pick your way through a garden of hidden (and fortunately de-activated) landmines.

Without doubt the most recognised of Cambodia’s many sights, located just outside Siem Reap, are the architecturally gobsmacking Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. These vast complexes of ancient Vishnu temples and palaces were built in the 1100s and are surrounded by immense moats which seem to double their spiritual impact. Do yourself a favour; follow the crowds to Wat in the late afternoon, because at sunset the city glows with a golden fire that makes the spirits soar. You’ll need several days in this region to fully appreciate the ancient splendour, and Siem Reap is well serviced by a wide variety of accommodation and entertainment choices.

Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh, retains much of the splendour that made it a Paris of the east before 1970. Handsome wide boulevards, fine colonial architecture, now crumbling and faded, and a parklike riverfront on the Tonle Sap with cafés and restaurants help make it a worthwhile destination for a few days.

While not yet a patch on Thailand’s offerings, beach resorts are beginning to emerge along the coast and point the direction to Cambodia’s future tourism appeal.

Tonle Sap River flows backwards during the monsoons to form Lake Tonle Sap, Southeast Asia’s largest freshwater lake

The coastal resort town Sihanoukville (named after King Norodom Sihanouk) is known as Snookyville by travellers.

You can’t use a coin-operated public phone in Cambodia – there are no coins