Returning, after 13 years, to the Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda, Eastern Africa, gave me a sense of dejevu. Then though, the park on the border of Zaire was bare, and little wildlife existed after being almost wiped out by the desperate forces of Idi Amin’s regime. Still, it was a place I remembered well - several interesting incidents ensuring it was indelibly stamped on my travel memory. Now more adventures were to be etched.
At the northern end of the Park, where Lake Edward flowed into Lake George via the Kazuga channel, stood the main Safari Lodge, empty in 1983, now brimming with tourists. It looked the same yet different, as the surrounding hectares were dotted with staff and researchers cottages and other accommodation. At the end of the peninsular on a steep rise above the Channel famous for its thousands of hippos, lay the sprawling campsite. Near a rondavel providing shelter from which you could admire the surroundings, I pitched my tent between two bushes since being told of the stray hippo that spent most afternoons grazing there. I didn’t want it to accidentally graze on my tent. A large number of warthogs did wander by but were of smaller stature and frightened easily.
The first evening while walking, I encountered two small leopards in front of me and I realised that there was no barrier between this "village" and the prolific wildlife that now abounded in this region. The second evening got even more exciting.
Dining at the rondavel, watching the herds of elephants meander down to drink at the channel, under the setting sun, was magical. One could see the hippos shifting restlessly in the shallows and herons nudged buffalo and antelope for a position at the water’s edge. Before dark I returned to my tent as I was the sole occupant of the vast campsite that evening. A young local lad – my tour guide on an earlier excursion to the chimpanzee sanctuary island – appeared to chat. He was followed by five massive hyenas that circled my tent, about thirty metres away. Just as the boy commented on why there were so many hyenas around -"there must be a lion in the vicinity as the hyenas come to scavenge what the lion kills"… there was the distinctive roar of a lion in fairly close proximity. The boy just departed rapidly.
That left me alone to contemplate the consequences of having a lion stumble upon my tent. I had visions of the smiling beast ripping open my tent with one graceful movement of his powerful foreleg so I immediately turned onto my stomach and positioned my backpack over my essential organs. As the roar continued to get closer I was apprehensive of unzipping the tent in case the noise attracted the lion’s attention, so I had to think of extra means of protection.
From all accounts fire was a good deterrent so I positioned my kerosene stove with matches in easy reach, although if I had used it, I probably would have burnt the tent down instead. I clutched my ever faithful tear gas with the naive thought that this may protect me from an attack. My next move could be considered an advertising plug – positive or negative – depending on how you interpret it. I covered myself in “Aeroguard” – it repels insects so perhaps its smell and taste could put off predators of the larger variety as well. I could have become a tasty snack, and whether it was the aroma of the “Aeroguard”, masking the perspiration seeping from my pores, that sent that poor cat reeling away in disgust or it just wasn’t interested, I will never know. I do know that the beast came within about fifty metres and kept me as motionless as a rock. My breathing did not return to normal until the roar had retreated well into the night.
Now perhaps you are not so adventurous to camp on your own, but you can experience a “safer” close encounter by joining one of the many safaris that showcase the vast diversity of the African animals, landscape, peoples and culture. From extended overland camping trips to privately owned luxury wildlife parks and everything in between, this magical place has something for everyone. I personally have visited five times, from north to south, east to west and with the total time amassing to almost two years. Happy Safaris.
I love it. I hope you will love it too.