India – Kashmir
Kashmir – what a contrast to Rajasthan I had just come from. Divided by India and Pakistan it is predominantly Muslim and has been the unfortunate victim of many conflicts between the two countries as to where the border actually runs. This is such a shame as it’s a state full of natural beauty in particular. Being on the edge of the Himalayas it’s excellent for trekking but being at a higher altitude also means a cooler retreat from the heat of the plains below. The British used to get away from the heat and bustle of New Delhi to spend summers here.
This is when the famous houseboats were established. It’s said that the Maharajah would not allow the British to buy land so they built the houseboats and stationed them on the huge Lake Dal at Srinagar the capital. We used it as a base for many weeks as we explored the rest of the state.
I arrived in the off season with my friend Linda and we were amazed at the elaborate and exquisitely ornate carved cedar wood of some houseboats as well as the amount of boats. Since it was off peak we were able to negotiate a great deal which included a room with two high beds and an ensuite with the claw foot bath which was filled for us each day by water heated on a fire and delivered in a bucket. We had all our meals included and although very simple we never went hungry.
We loved sitting in the lounge area surrounded by antique furniture and the whole experience had you felling as if you were visiting a wealthy old aunt. Couldn’t say the same for the owners, who crammed about eleven people into a basic one room hut on the shore. We would invite the eight kids in to watch the TV and they loved it.
There was never a dull moment, with vendors plying their many wares from the masses of shikaras – small canoe type boats some very lavishly decorated. This was also the transport to get you around the lake as many of the houseboats were permanently moored by the shore. Our houseboat had its own shikara which we could use and we spent many days exploring the maze of waterways, the floating gardens and islands that made up the lake. I became a master rower after going around in circles to start – only one oar!!
Further into the mountains in a town called Pahalgam we stayed at a gorgeous hotel on the outskirts of town making it a quieter retreat. Blazing fires in the bedrooms ensured a cosy night sleep. Breakfast and afternoon teas on the verandah overlooking the meandering river rejuvenated all our senses. It was in this village where horse riding was the main tourist activity to explore the scenic areas around. Bus loads of tourists would arrive just for the day and the locals with horses would jostle for their custom. The locals could become quite persistent and if you really weren’t interested it was a bit of a pain.
However Linda and I made sure we were never hassled. The first morning, walking down the street when the first man asked if we wanted a horse ride we had some fun. “Yes” we said and proceeded to gallop ourselves down the whole street. Linda in front with two rocks banging together going “clackety clack” while I was behind waving the imaginary whip and shouting “giddyup”!!! The locals were so amused they cheered and laughed and mimicked us every time they saw us but ultimately left us alone. We ended up staying a week as this was true bliss.
We did some longer day treks and shorter ones and just enjoyed the village life. We were welcomed into a local school where the kids had their lessons outside in the fresh air under the backdrop of mountains. The kids were less aware of the cold than we, as shown by kids swimming naked in a ditch in the street.
The whole time was just perfect and we came back down fully refreshed and ready to tackle all further adventures in the heart of India.